The Artful Science of Cooking – Fannie Farmer Brings Measurement to Recipes

Lynn: I love how science can be found everywhere! The importance of ratio, reactions, and measurement is as important to great food as the ingredients themselves. But that understanding wasn’t considered important until a young cook named Fannie Farmer started thinking about recipes and culinary instruction in the late 1800s.

Emma Bland Smith brings Fannie’s story to readers in her fascinating new picture book, The Fabulous Fannie Farmer: Kitchen Scientist and American Cook (Astra/Calkins Creek, 2024). There is so much to talk about here, but I’ll try to stay with the best ingredients and let your interest rise. Fannie Farmer grew up in a time when home cooking was considered a woman’s activity and therefore not really worthy of the respect shown to the great male chefs. Girls learned to cook from their mothers with recipes passed down through the generations and cooking was considered a womanly instinct. A lump of this, a pinch of that, as many egg yolks as necessary were all the measurements anyone needed!

Young Fannie’s dreams were of becoming a teacher, but those evaporated when Fannie, at age 16, contracted polio and was bedridden for several years. Cooking was her therapy and Fannie became an excellent cook as she recovered. With encouragement from friends, 31-year-old Fannie decided to enroll in the Boston Cooking School in 1888, and there, her talents as a teacher, cook, and scientist came together. Wanting to help home cooks produce reliable, excellent, and nutritious meals, Fannie began to measure, test, observe, and record her recipes. Students flocked to her classes, and in 1894, Fannie approached publishers with the Boston Cooking School Cookbook, which she had revised and rewritten. The publisher was skeptical but Fannie’s cookbook was an instant success, selling over 300,000 copies in her lifetime and over 7 million to date.

Emma Bland Smith’s clear, age-appropriate writing manages to be fun and fascinating while incorporating historical background and making this a terrific book for starting discussions on the scientific method, women’s roles in history, and the science of cooking. The book’s appeal is heightened by the charming watercolor illustrations by Susan Reagan. As to be expected with a Calkin’s Creek book, the back matter is outstanding, providing additional information on Farmer and her legacy, the science of measurement, polio, the development of the American recipe, resources for young readers, a Timeline, and wonderful historic photographs.

This is a great choice for all elementary libraries and STEM classes while still being an excellent read-aloud and discussion starter. Enjoy!

A Saucy Read: Tomatoes for Neela

Tomatoes for Neela by Padma LakshmiCindy: My husband rarely gets credit for his support of Bookends Blog or his suggestions for my to-read list. He saw an interview with the host of Top Chef and Taste the Nation, Padma Lakshmi, on this Today Show segment about her new picture book, Tomatoes for Neela (Viking, 2021) and told me he wanted to read it and that I should consider it for the blog. Now, I’m not a fan of “celebrity author” childrens books, but this one, illustrated by Caldecott Honor Winner Juana Martinez-Neal is an exception. I am a fan of any food books that encourage healthy eating and that promote families spending time cooking together. Lynn found the book at the public library and read it and then handed it off to me the day I had spent the morning canning tomatoes and tomato sauce! Perfect timing.

IMG-2622Young Neela loves to cook with her amma (mother) and copies their recipes in her own notebook just like her amma and her paati (grandmother) have always done. To Neela, these books seem magical, like a wizard’s spell book. A trip to the green market that day is highlighted by a stunning display of tomatoes in all sizes, shapes, and colors. I could hang that spread on my tomato red  kitchen wall and never tire of looking at it. The acrylic and colored pencil illustrations beautifully showcase the the fruit and the love between Neela and her amma and their joy in purchasing such treasures in season.

In addition to the lessons on making the sauce and dishes using the sauce (recipes included), the story is infused with family tradition, Indian culture, and information about tomatoes and the farmworkers who bring those fruits to market. The backmatter includes more information including a list of books for children about Cesar Chavez and Dolores Huerta.

I wish I’d read this gorgeous book before canning this year, as I didn’t fry my garlic before adding it to the sauce, nor did I know to cut x’s in the bottom of my tomatoes before boiling them to loosen the skins, but I will try both next year. I learned to can tomatoes from my mother but it became a tradition my father and I did together every August while my mother was selling antiques on the weekends. 

It is one I continue with my husband as I spend the day thinking of my father and enjoying the satisfaction of putting away a bit of summer to enjoy in the cold days of winter. 

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